By Mary Jo Hoag, Class of 2007
Like many other docents, I’d long heard about the Louis Sullivan “Jewel Box Banks” located around the Midwest. And I knew that docents had taken a trip to see some of them in 2007, just before I became a docent. A little research revealed that Sullivan designed six banks during the last 18 years of his life: one in Ohio, one in Wisconsin, one in Minnesota, and three in Iowa. I have a couple friends in Des Moines, so I invited them to come along.
It was in Grinnell that my friends and I encountered the first Sullivan jewel box bank, the Merchants’ National Bank (1914). Even though I’d seen pictures, I had no idea it could be so beautiful. Photos can’t do justice to this mini-masterpiece at all. Today the building houses the Visitor’s Center and the Chamber of Commerce. It is attached to a Well’s Fargo Bank which owns the jewel box.
I then bid farewell to my Des Moines friends and set out to find the second Iowa jewel box bank in Algona, a small town about two hours from Des Moines. Driving down State Street, it’s easy to spot the jewel box. Much smaller than the bank in Grinnell, it is truly a tiny jewel box, standing out from everything else in town. This, too, is now the local Chamber of Commerce but began its life in 1913 as a land and loan office. Over the decades it came in for some use and abuse but is now lovingly restored. Some of the stained glass windows are original and some are replicas. I spent some time in a nice coffee shop across the street where I could gaze at the building and listen to some interesting livestock conversations and local gossip!
Early the next say, I was off to see the third, and final, jewel box located in Cedar Rapids. This jewel box is no longer a bank at all, and neither is it a Chamber of Commerce. Built to house The People’s Savings Bank (1911), the building is now the Popoli Restaurant. This interior was very different than the previous two. It features the Sullivan clerestory stained glass and skylights as well as the original bank vaults and floors. Under those windows are four large murals depicting rural life in Iowa painted by Alan Philbrick. It is an amazing jewel box for sure. I was just in time for lunch, and it was a real treat to enjoy my meal while gazing around this Sullivan masterpiece.
Across town stands Saint Paul’s United Methodist Church, designed by Sullivan in 1914. Knowing why I was there, the receptionist greeted me, grabbed her keys, and gave me a complete tour of the church!
The church has many Sullivanesque touches. He lived in a small house next door for two years as he worked on the church but left over some disagreements. Another architect, using Sullivan’s plans, finished the church. Fortunately, Sullivan is credited with the design.
I made one last stop in Clinton to see what had been the Van Allen Department Store, designed by Sullivan in 1913. It’s never hard to pick out a Sullivan-designed building in these smaller towns! The Van Allen Building stands on a corner; the façade is beautifully restored and lovingly cared for. It reminded me a little of the façade of the Gage Building in Chicago. The front doors were unlocked, so I stuck my head in to see the interior. Two painters were at work and invited me inside. The interior is unimpressive except for the original capitals on the columns. The painters said that they were strictly instructed not to paint or touch the capitals! Not too surprising.
I found the people of Iowa exceptionally friendly and helpful. So if you’re thinking about a similar itinerary, you’ll find yourself very welcome.
While my intention was to search for Louis, I was happy to find other architectural masters along the way. Look for Part 2 in January!
This is great ! Now I am tempted to tour Iowa to see these gems as well. Looking forward to Part 2, Mary Jo !
Thanks Mary Jo! I was very familiar with the Grinnell Bank since my son went to school there. I keep planning to see the rest.
Mary Jo – great pictures and fascinating commentary!
For more information on the buildings, the Society of Architectural Historians book series Buildings of the United States has Buildings of Iowa which discusses all of them. In addition, SAH’s online Archipedia (free access!) https://sah-archipedia.org/ has most of the content of the Buildings of the United States series (and plans to add all of the content, as well as new content about U.S. and foreign architecture) –
People’s Savings Bank in Cedar Rapids https://sah-archipedia.org/buildings/IA-01-CE083
Merchants National Bank in Grinnell https://sah-archipedia.org/buildings/IA-01-CE225
bank in Algona https://sah-archipedia.org/buildings/IA-01-NO001
Van Allen Department Store https://sah-archipedia.org/buildings/IA-01-ME066
St. Paul’s Methodist Church https://sah-archipedia.org/buildings/IA-01-CE044
Apparently the SAH Archipedia hasn’t quite kept up with various name and function changes of these buildings, but the information they include is still very useful.
Thanks for the tour of Iowa!
Is this heaven…
Thanks for this wonderful piece, Mary Jo! The Iowa Chamber of Commerce should be paying you, since I’m sure you’ve inspired many people to travel there with your words and great photographs.
Wonderful article and pictures. You’ve inspired us to do our own trip!
Thanks for your post with colorful pictures, Mary Jo! Yes, so many Jewels! What a fun read!
I was fortunate to take the 2007 Docent trip to Iowa. Jason Neises, who was the CAF Staff leader of Volunteers, i.e. Docents at the time, accompanied the group. One highlight was our stop in Dubuque, which included a visit with Jason’s family. As you and other docents may know, after Jason departed from CAF, he moved back to Dubuque where he and his family continue to live, work and play. Be sure to connect with him when you visit Iowa again. He currently is Community Development Coordinator, Community Foundation of Greater Dubuque and leads various tours of Dubuque.
Great virtual tour! I was also on the docent tour in 2007 where we saw all of these (and more architecturally significant in Iowa). and it was great.
I don’t know that my addition is needed, because everyone is appreciative of your reporting, Mary Jo. But thanks for the overview. We’ve seen the Grinnell bank but it sure does add a lure to go back to Iowa.
Thanks for your excellent reportage and photography. Can’t wait for Park 2.
Is this heaven, no it’s Iowa! I really enjoyed your trip report Mary Jo. Thanks for taking the time to provide the narrative and pics!
Mary Jo,
You might just be inspiring CAC to create another version of a road trip! Fascinating! Thanks for taking the time to sharing writing and photography.